Elegant Jura arrives in London

Chandos House

On a chilly day in mid-May London welcomed a group of winemakers to the first Jura wine trade tasting in the elegant surroundings of Chandos House, W1.

Jura tasting

Duchess of Chandos room

Getting ready

Céline and Jen, of Mandarin Communications, arranging the room

Nearly ready

Nearly ready.

Full swing

 The tasting in full swing.

busy

Tasters

27 Jura producers showed their wines to more than 120 interested and enthusiastic tasters… including Raymond Blanc.

Welcome to the Jura

Wink Lorch planned and delivered a couple of seminars, managing to explain clearly the story of Jura and its fascinating wines in less than 60 minutes!

Seminar

Jura labels

A small, very small selection of the Jura wines for tasting and talking about.

Comté

Local Jura cheese featuring Comté from The French Comté was also on show….

Raymond, Gerard, Comté

… and proudly presented by Raymond Blanc, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, and Gerard Basset, Decanter Man of the Year.

Tim, Jen and Céline

Tim Atkin seems pleased with his Franche-Comté goodie bag, with Jen and Céline of Mandarin Communications.

Jancis tastingJancis Robinson was one of the many tasters.

tasters

Jura producers

Several of the Jura wine producers, and a father-in-law!

discussion

And there were many animated discussions.

end of tasting

The party’s over – all good things come to an end.

The team and Raymond Blanc

Lovely to see Raymond Blanc who is so proud of his origins and the fabulous wines from the Jura. Well done Céline, Wink and Jen for organising this first London Jura tasting!

Real wine in Leigh-on-Sea, Essex

There is a gentle change, and a great improvement, in the way we can buy our wines in the UK. With the demise of the off-licence chains, Threshers, Unwins etc, there has been a burgeoning of small, individual wine shops such as Bottle Apostle, Hackney and Park+Bridge, Acton, appearing not only in London, but in towns up and down the country.

Run by enthusiastic and knowledgeable people these shops are improving the range and the quality of wines available for wine drinkers.

The wine world has also changed: there are the huge companies able to produce wine at the very low price level demanded by the big main suppliers to furnish their supermarket shelves etc. And there are the small dedicated farmers producing wines that are carefully made. Often organic, biodynamic, even (dare I say it) natural, their wines are individual and charismatic.

However it has been almost impossible to sell their small quantities of wine to the big buyers: “Not cheap enough and not enough cases of wine to distribute to all our outlets”.

So I was delighted to hear of a brand new wine shop opening near me in Essex, a business that will be looking to import wine from those producers keen to sell in the UK.

The Thames at Leigh-on-Sea

The Thames at Leigh-on-Sea

Leigh-on-Sea is a prosperous ‘seaside’ town on the lower reaches of the River Thames which I always enjoy visiting. With great views over the water, invigorating walks, squidgy beaches, and a variety of fish restaurants it is an attractive place to visit.

 

Railway by the sea

Railway by the sea

And a pleasant place to live with good rail links to London where a number of residents work.

Entrance

This wine shop is Vino Vero, which opened in style last Friday when many locals arrived to look, taste and talk about the individual wines on offer.

Sam and Charlotte

Owners Charlotte and Sam Brown are keen wine lovers, who having studied at the WSET decided that now was the time to open a wine shop in Leigh, Sam’s home town. They will specialise in sustainable wines from small independent producers from all over the world.

I chatted with them about their plans and why they opened Vino Vero:

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To start they offer 65 wines priced from £7.50 up to £45 and hope to increase their range to 80-100. As well as using good specialist suppliers they plan to import themselves; there are many excellent small producers in France, Italy and Spain whose wines aren’t yet brought into the UK that would be just right for this shop!

Champagne Fleury

A number of wines are organic, some biodynamic. I was pleased to see Champagne Fleury on the shelves, one of the first to use biodynamics in Champagne, converting in 1992.

Pouring and notes

Although Vino Vero is not a wine bar, customers can sample as well as buy small glasses of wine to taste. Nibbles such as cured ham and organic cheese are on offer as well.

130503.052 note Vino Vero, Leigh_blog

There are good notes for each wine on display – I do enjoy the ‘Experience Pairing’!

130503.079 Vino Vero, Leigh_blog

The De Long wine maps on display are clear and informative.

Party, party

The opening party was well attended, wines were tasted, discussed and sold – everyone seemed excited about this new addition to Leigh.

Sam and Charlotte are very keen and their wine shop will do well – after all, Vino Vero translates as Real, Honest Wine!

PS Seen in one of Leigh-on-Sea’s many intriguing small antique shops, a bottle that won’t appear in Vino Vero…

Babycham

Babycham and cocktail cabinet – very fifties!

Vino Vero 110 Leigh Road, Leigh on Sea, Essex, SS9 1BU

Vino Vero

Terrific Terroirific

Terroirific

Years ago, when I worked at the Hotel Eden in Geneva, I rented a room near La Gare de Cornavin, in the heart of the city. The quartier was quiet and serious then – after all, it was Switzerland in the 1960s – and there was nothing like the great little wine bar we visited when we were in Geneva a couple of weeks ago.

Terroirific

Wink had been at the opening of Terroirific earlier this year and told me what a great place it is. So I was delighted to discover for myself this oasis of good cheer, individual wines, delicious tapas and great music all cared for by the irrepressible Onne Guelbenzu.

Terroirific

Not large at all but with enough room for quite a few people to eat and drink in reasonable comfort. There’s a small bar and a ‘safe’ area at the back for el jamon and a live musician.

Onne, Terrorific

Onne hamming it up…

Terroirific wines

The small selection of wine, regularly changed, and the tapas are listed on blackboards.

Featuring wines from small producers, mainly from Switzerland and Iberia, with styles that are individual and charismatic. We tried three wines, pictured above, the middle one more natural than the others, but all delightfully different.

From the small kitchen a choice of tapas is produced, just right to go with the wines and the informal atmosphere.

Open every evening except Sunday and Monday from 17.00 till late with special events from time to time: Champagne brunches and soirées musicales, such as ‘Electronic Music from Outer Space’ and ‘Champunk Night’…

Should you be in Geneva do visit Terroirific for its cheerful atmosphere, exciting unusual wines, delicious tapas, music and, of course, the gorgeous Onne! Listen in below.

 

Shame Terroirific wasn’t there when I was living nearby all those years ago…

Malbec World Day

GauchoYou drink an unusual red wine, you read the back label to learn what it is and you’re told that it’s made from Pressac, Prunelat or Quercy. Would you be any the wiser?

If it was made from Cot you might possibly have an idea.

These grape varieties, from the regions of Saint Emillion, Gironde, Charente and, of course, Cahors, are the local names of the better known Malbec. You can discover even more synonyms in the excellent and essential Wine Grapes book.

However it does appear that Argentina has become the spiritual home of Malbec, where it flourishes well, where a range of styles are produced and where there is a dedication to quality.

Malbec World Day 2013

This year will be the third year of the international celebration of this voluptuous variety. Malbec World Day is celebrated on April 17, to commemorate the day when Argentinian president, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, officially made his mission to transform Argentina’s wine industry. On that day, back in 1853, he tasked Michel Aimé Pouget, a French soil expert, to bring over new vines. Amongst his selection, was Malbec, which has become Argentina’s most known varietal.

Phil Crozier, Wine Director of Gaucho restaurants

Phil Crozier, Gaucho Wine Director

Each year there are many celebrations throughout the world, not only on Malbec day itself but also during the week.

Last month I was invited to attend a lunch hosted by Phil Crozier, the charmingly disheveled Wine Director of Gaucho restaurants, where he introduced us to the five Malbecs that will available by the glass during the week-long celebrations at 14 Gaucho restaurants throughout England.

Lunch tableThe table was laid in the Cavas de Gaucho, the wine shop and private dining room of their Piccadilly restaurant on, appropriately named, Swallow Street in the heart of London.

Wine lineupWe tasted the wines as Phil told us all about them, sharing his passionate enthusiasm for Argentina, its wines and especially its Malbecs.

Gaucho’s wine list is the largest Argentine wine list in the world outside of Argentina, and also boasts the greatest Malbec collection outside of South America. 70 different Malbec from Argentina’s unique terroirs that vary greatly in altitude and latitude are featured on Gaucho’s list of over 200 wines.

SteakThen came the opportunity to try the wines with food. After the delicious ceviche first course, we were assailed by an array of steaks! And what a selection of good Argentinean beef.

Humita SalteñoThere weren’t only chips but yummy Humita Salteño – roasted pumpkin and sweetcorn served in a corn husk – served with thesteaks.

Now the Malbecs really started to sing, complementing the beef magnificently.

Here are three of them:

Colome de Terruno Gran Altura Malbec 2011 Colome
Deep dark ruby, purple rim. Big black fruits, figgy, damask rose. Dry, robust tannins, big juicy fruit. Beetrooty – a vegetable which is also great with this wine!

Unoaked, from some of the highest vineyards in the world.

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Susana Balbo Mandala Malbec Vista FloresSusana Balbo Mandala Malbec Vista Flores 2011
Deep ruby purple rim. Juicy creamy red berries, chocolate, spice, rich, long. Great with steak and dark chocolate.

Great winemaker Susana Balbo was commissioned to make a series of wines – one of them is from a micro-region in the heart of the Uco Valley, Mendoza.

Vina Patricia Malbec, Lunlunta 2010.
Vina Patricia Malbec, Lunlunta 2010
Deep ruby. Meaty berries juicy rich, dry fruity tannins, spice developing. Long and rich in the mouth – great finish.

Made in Gaucho’s own vineyard on Lunlunta, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, this wine is the twinkle in Phil’s eye!

If you want to share in the fun of World Malbec Day, do think of going to Gaucho. On the day itself, April 17th, you can taste all 40 Malbecs on the Gaucho list and see a little piece of their own Malbec vineyard at Cavas de Gaucho, Piccadilly!

Visit any of their restaurants during the week where the five Malbecs are available by the glass or choose one of many others on their list.

Or you can seek out a Malbec, be it from Argentina, Cahors or elsewhere in the world and raise a glass to Domingo Sarmiente who welcomed this noble variety to Argentina!

Phil Crozier tells us about Malbec at the Gaucho.

 

Certification for homemade restaurants in France

Collège Culinaire de FranceFifteen of the greatest French chefs, including Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon, under the auspices of Le College Culinaire de France, have launched a certification highlighting restaurants that prepare their own dishes and offer good hospitality.

Simply called Fait Maison, meaning homemade, this is an award that I think is long overdue.

AubergeThere have been too many times recently when we have eaten out in France and have noticed that in a busy restaurant the kitchen doesn’t seem to be manic at all, with hardly a chef to be seen. The dishes, though often pleasant enough, aren’t exciting, in spite of over-elaborate garnishes… Once, when I returned home after such a meal I did a quick Google search to find that the identical dishes were available from a catering company.

I don’t have a problem with pre-prepared food per se, as long as it is of good quality; indeed I remember an early producer, Alveston Kitchens, based in Stratford-upon-Avon selling its dishes back in 1968. But in an ideal world I think we, the customers, should be told that the food is bought in.

Aperitif
Which, of course, is impossible, so chapeau (hats off) to these top chefs who have come up with this great idea of the Homemade certification.

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They also insist that the restaurants should be welcoming, as far too many places greet you with a sulk - “Il y a trop de restaurants en France où quand vous entrez, on vous fait la gueule”.

Plat du JourThe establishments, be they restaurant, auberge or bistro, must apply for the certification by providing evidence that they cook their own food with good ingredients. Their customers will also be questioned via the internet and if there is a minimum of 75% positive responses, and the panel of 15 chefs are satisfied, then the certificate will be awarded.

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I would imagine that there is a fee to apply, The fee is €35.80 incl VAT per month but I do think it will be well worth it.

Open.

Amazingly, of the 150,000 restaurants in France, 75% use bought-in dishes – ‘industrial’ cuisine.

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There are reasons behind this move away from homemade food: not only is employment in France very expensive, with the government taking almost as much in taxes as the wages paid, but also there is the crazy constraint of the 35 hour week.

Le Panoramic.
Let’s see if this idea works. I feel certain that many homemade restaurants, often with few tables, and run diligently by a husband-and-wife team will be proud of the enamel plaque gracing their entrance!

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What do you think?

You can read the original press release in French.

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Updated 11th April 2013:
Further details of the Restaurant de Qualité certification and application procedure