It was a damp, somewhat gloomy day when we went to visit a fine vigneron, Jacques Maillet, in Chautagne, one of the scattered wine regions of Savoie, Eastern France. Last year we had visited Jacques at the Giachino brothers’ winery where he makes his wine.
Map ©Wine Travel Guides
Serrières en Chautagne, to the west of Annecy.
Jacques regularly visits our local Sunday market in France. Over the years we have got to know him well, enjoying his wines and delighted to hear that after his years of hard, very hard, work in his vineyards he has become very successful. As well as supplying good wine stores in France and other countries, his wine is listed at Noma, Copenhagen, the world’s best restaurant.
Although we had visited him a couple of years ago, we had yet to see his vineyards. So the appointment made, together with an invitation to stay for lunch, we arrived to be whisked off to see the two parcels of vines he owns – 4.5 hectares altogether. An organic producer for many years, Jacques emphasises that his goal is to make wine to the best of his ability.
On south west facing slopes overlooking the Rhône, one of the classic wine rivers of France, with Lac de Bourget to the south, we saw immaculately tended rows of Gamay, as well as the Savoie varieties, Jacquère and Altesse vines.
The grapes were harvested a few weeks ago, since when the soil has been turned by the rows of vines. The grass will be ploughed in in the summer.
Lavender plants grace the ends of some of the rows.
Jacques chats to his vines. He tends them carefully, not cutting of the tops of the vines in the summer so that there are a good amount of leaves to compensate for those removed lower down, which ensures that the grapes can also enjoy the sunshine.
Back in the van to visit Jacques’ other vineyard, Le Cellier des Pauvres, named after the rustic house tucked in the corner.
Here we were to meet Jacque’s pride and joy – very old Mondeuse vines.
Grown as bush vines they only need support from stout sticks, as befits old folks aged from 80 – 110 years old.
Jacques has taken cuttings (massal selection) from many of these vines, because they produce such good quality fruit. They are then sent to a local vine nursery to be grafted onto American rootstooks before being replanted in his vineyards.
Some tender loving care for an elderly chap…
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The underlying soil at the top of the vineyard is a type of sandstone, which becomes friable when exposed to the weather.
As well as the west facing slopes, a stout wood protects the Celliers des Pauvres vines from the cold North winds, ensuring that this is a very warm vineyard.
We followed Jacques back home for lunch together with yet another opportunity to try his wines!
As an aperitif we shared a bottle of Kante Vitovska 2009 which we had brought for Jacques and his wife, Christiane, from our European Wine Bloggers’ Conference visit to Carso in North East Italy.
The gloomy weather did nothing to dampen our spirits; on the contrary to visit such an inspired vigneron and revel in his company was a pleasure and a privilege!
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You can see more of my photos of our day with Jacques Maillet on Flickr.
Look for suppliers of Jacques’ wine.
